Apologies for being out of touch for a couple days. I just arrived in Sicily, after a whirlwind week in Naples, and I don't have internet access at my hotel. I'm writing from a rundown internet cafe, apparently the only one in this rundown town, where two men are currently fighting over some sports news they found online. Lots of yelling and dramatic gestures.
I fell in love with Naples these past few days. I'll write more when I get settled in Palermo, and if I have internet there, I'll post some photos. For now, I'm off to visit the cathedral before sunset, and tomorrow morning I'll see two of Caravaggio's late masterpieces before catching a train out of town.